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When you save up for a meal at a renowned restaurant in a distant city, you probably don’t think about philanthropy and sustainability. For a Barcelona-based chef who recently won a major culinary humanitarian award, this is a problem that needs addressing.
Andres Torres, a former war correspondent, has transformed his battlefield experiences into a highly acclaimed restaurant.
Located in the Catalan wine region of Penedés, Torres’s Casa Nova, where he serves as head chef, offers top-notch cuisine to patrons while urging them to consider the origins of their expensive food.
Torres was awarded the prestigious Basque Culinary World Prize and its €100,000 prize this year. The award is given to a restaurant that demonstrates a broader socio-economic impact beyond the kitchen.
The former war reporter divides his time between Casa Nova and overseeing the NGO Global Humanitaria, a non-profit organization that primarily operates in impoverished and war-torn regions to provide food and clean water sources to locals.
It may seem unbelievable that one person can manage both a kitchen and an international humanitarian organization, but these ventures have a surprising level of synergy.
Torres’s Michelin Green Star restaurant channels a portion of its profits into Global Humanitaria. The cuisine is inspired by the places where Torres has reported and conducted humanitarian work, such as Guatemala, Syria, and Ukraine.
Torres, speaking to Fortune through an interpreter, shared that he learned about how conflict impacts local food ecosystems while reporting on the ground. As a self-taught chef, he determined that the best way to convey this to the public was not through journalism, but by cooking at Casa Nova.
Amid existential questions regarding the downsides of tourism, Torres’s restaurant serves as an example of a concept that could cultivate more mindful travelers.
Conscious tourism
Barcelona residents have been among the most restless in response to the resurgence of tourism across Europe, driven by the “revenge travel” trend following the COVID-19 pandemic.
In addition to the weather and architectural wonders of the renowned architect Gaudi, food tourism is a major attraction for visitors to Catalonia.
This prompted locals to spray unsuspecting dining tourists with water guns in July while welcoming them with chants of “go home” as they strolled down Las Ramblas.
Reducing tourism to levels acceptable to locals is impractical for several reasons, including its employment of millions of people and relatively open borders that attract curious travelers from around the world.
However, the challenges of over-tourism persist, impacting the quality of life and disposable income of locals as an increasing share of major cities’ accommodations are allocated to short-term rentals catering to travelers.
Barcelona plans to prohibit Airbnb short-term rentals from 2029 to free up housing supply for locals, though the impact on tourist numbers remains uncertain.
Yet, amid the dilemma between economic growth and appeasing frustrated locals, some cities are seeking a middle ground between starry-eyed tourists and disgruntled residents.
While Barcelona residents took a stern approach to curb over-tourism, the Danish capital of Copenhagen has opted for a different strategy.
In July, Copenhagen introduced a CopenPay program that rewards willing tourists with free museum visits, lunches, and even kayak tours for performing community service. Fortune reported that a Surf School would offer free lessons to surfers who helped clean beaches for 30 minutes.
Within the complex autonomous region of Catalonia, Torres’s restaurant is at the forefront of the increasing demand for conscious capitalism.
Torres has gained popularity among Gen Z visitors who have learned about his gastro-humanitarian activities, he told Fortune, even if they cannot always afford to dine there.
The primary target, however, is high-net-worth individuals who can support their beliefs with action. Many culinary enthusiasts will visit Torres’s restaurant based on positive reviews, but often find themselves engaged in discussions with the chef about the origin of their meals.
Torres mentioned that an unnamed wealthy diner made a donation to fund the construction of a bunker for school children in Ukraine, providing shelter from ongoing bombardment by Russia’s military operations.
He noted that several other philanthropic diners use their dining experience to decide whether to support Torres’s humanitarian initiatives.
He also recounted a recent instance where a table of Russian citizens and a separate table of Ukrainians were able to discuss the aftermath of the conflict over a meal.
Torres believes that more restaurants in Europe should prioritize sustainability, disclose the sources of their food, and provide tourists with insights not only into the local ecosystem but also the global one.
If this approach becomes the norm, hungry tourists may leave with more than just a satisfied stomach.
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