The Sicilian gelato dynasty funded by organized crime

Two servings of pistachio gelato, one serving of corruption. For years, tourists have been enjoying Sicilian gelato at popular parlors in Palermo, unaware that these thriving businesses were under the control of organized crime.

The scheme was a classic case for investigators trained to uncover illicit financial activities, but even with the presence of three typical mafia elements—a suspicious bankruptcy, a frontman, and a cunning “Godfather”—it took years for authorities to dismantle the operation.

The Brioscia brand, consisting of two ice cream parlors, was flourishing by the end of the 2010s, attracting both locals and international visitors with its glowing reviews on travel platforms.

The establishments were managed by Mario Mancuso, with Michele Micalizzi pulling the strings behind the scenes. Micalizzi, who had a history of serving time for Mafia connections, handled the business operations beyond just the ice cream.

This included taking a share of the profits in exchange for protecting Mancuso from extortion attempts by other mobsters, as per a judicial source cited by AFP.

However, the company was registered under Mancuso’s wife’s name, and when divorce became imminent, the men feared losing control.

In 2021, they declared Brioscia bankrupt, claiming a 4 million euro ($4.3 million) deficit due to the Covid lockdown, according to the source.

“It was a thriving business, widely recognized in Palermo. Therefore, the bankruptcy claim was unfounded,” the source told AFP.

Suspicious authorities used wiretaps to uncover that the two men, far from facing bankruptcy, had ambitious plans to expand their parlors internationally.

The duo established a new company named Sharbat and rebranded the parlors, as per the source.

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“I’m not even sure the employees were aware of who they were truly working for,” a nearby store worker mentioned anonymously.

Investigators claim that the men split the profits, with Micalizzi channeling a portion to his incarcerated relatives for covering legal expenses or other needs.

However, on August 12, the police made arrests, apprehending both men and four accomplices while seizing 1.5 million euros.

Mancuso and Micalizzi face charges of mafia-related criminal association, extortion, and fraudulent bankruptcy.

The Mafia’s billions

From drug trafficking and extortion to legal businesses and shell companies utilized for money laundering, Italy’s Central Bank estimates the annual revenue of the country’s criminal organizations at 40 billion euros, equivalent to two percent of the national wealth.

The mafia continues to profit from traditional activities like drug trafficking, with the ‘Ndrangheta in Calabria being a major player in Europe’s cocaine trade.

“It also invests directly in the legal economy,” explained Rocco Sciarrone, a criminal psychology professor at Turin University.

According to economist Antonio Parbonetti’s 2022 report, over two-thirds of mafia infiltrations occur in sectors such as construction, trade, real estate, and manufacturing.

The mafia’s influence extends to agriculture, hospitality, transportation, waste management, and logistics.

The extent of criminal group investments in each sector varies significantly across different regions.

“The socio-economic landscape in Sicily is characterized by small family businesses that are easily used for money laundering,” noted Eliseo Davi from Palermo University.

As per the Parbonetti report, one in every two mafia-controlled companies is considered a “star” company, generating substantial revenue, providing employment, and enjoying broad social, economic, and political support.

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In the case of the Palermo gelato scandal, one of the two parlors did not possess the required permits, prompting calls for an investigation into potential collusion with public officials.

In close proximity to the parlors stands the former residence of Giovanni Falcone, an anti-mafia judge whose assassination by the mob in 1992 triggered a government crackdown that significantly weakened Cosa Nostra.

Similar to US law enforcement agent Eliot Ness, who brought down gangster Al Capone, Falcone adhered to a straightforward principle: follow the money.

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